Are you immune to “blue disease”, also known as “goshawk sickness” or “palombitis”? This is an incurable endemic disease that is rife in south-west France, particularly in the Basque region. A disease from which, it is said, there is no complete cure. If you stare into the sky for hours on end, you’re probably already infected! To find out more, visit Ainhoa, a few kilometers from Espelette.
Goshawks return for the blue season
October is the blue month of the pigeon, in the small listed village of Ainhoa, fifteen minutes from our campsite in the Basque Country. The wood pigeon, known as the blue bird to the inhabitants of the South-West (because of its beautiful blue color), Columba palumbus to purists, is the other name given to the wood pigeon, the largest of Europe’s pigeons.
In early autumn, wood pigeons begin their migration from Scandinavia to North Africa. On the way, they stop off in the Basque country, where the Pyrenees are lower than elsewhere.
From then on, the arrival of the mythical blue bird is a joy for hunters, for whom dove hunting is synonymous with festivals, gastronomy and encounters. To mark the occasion, the village of Ainhoa celebrates the bird-symbol with an annual Palombe festival.
The Dove Festival in Ainhoa
Throughout the day, local producers will be on hand at the market, along with craftspeople who will be delighted to show you their skills. Numerous events will also punctuate this day dedicated to the beautiful blue bird. First of all, the blessing and release of goshawks at the fronton, followed by a special goshawk meal in one of the village’s restaurants. The festivities will continue with Basque songs and traditional dances, as well as workshops in cooking, stone carving, glass engraving, Espelette pepper rope making…
Dove hunting and pigeon shooting
From October 1 to November 30, dove hunting is a major event awaited all year round by the inhabitants of the South-West, and a real tourist attraction for campers in search of the picturesque. Not so long ago, it was customary to take a vacation in October to go dove hunting. Others would call in sick to work, citing acute palombitis, the famous “blue disease”. The Basques’ almost amorous attachment to this age-old hunt is clear to see. There are several hunting techniques, the most widespread being net hunting. Around the Col de Lizarrieta, south of Sare, hunters spend several years building their “palombière”, a hut camouflaged in the ferns that serves as a lookout post. It’s also, and above all, a place for sharing, exchange and conviviality between generations and social classes. If you have the opportunity to visit a palombière during your stay in the Basque Country, don’t hesitate!
Photo: © Charles J Sharp
